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In This Article
What Is a Gel Manicure?
How Long They Last
The Cost
Gel Nails vs. Shellac Nails
Professional vs At-Home Gel Manicure
Safety Considerations
Are They Damaging?
How to Remove
The Takeaway
Whether youre already a gel-nail devotee or simply considering giving semi-permanent polish a try, chances are you may not know everything there is to know about gel manicures. The gel manicure has gained immense popularity for its ability to withstand a busy workweek, kid-friendly vacation, and days filled with hands-on projects but its also garnered a bit of controversy around its UV-curing method. So whats the real deal with gel nails? Ahead, nail experts and a dermatologist share everything you need to know about gel manicures, including the benefits, cost, and safety considerations.
Meet the Expert
Evelyn Lim is the chief educator at Paintbox.
Anastasia Totty is an educator and professional gel nail artist at LeChat Nails.
Dr. Marisa Garshick is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
What Is a Gel Manicure?
A gel manicure follows most of the same steps as your traditional manicure—your nails are cut, filed, and shaped, cuticles are cut (if you so choose), but thats where the similarities end.
Gel nail polish is painted on similarly to classic lacquer. However, it is cured with a UV or LED light to help lock it in place for long-lasting wear. Each coat of gel polish will need to be cured for about 30 to 60 seconds at a time. And instead of waiting for your nails to dry, youre ready to leave the salon as soon as the last topcoat cures. And as a bonus, “Gel manicures are more resistant to chips and wear and tear,” says Gibson Tuttle. “They also stay glossy for the duration of the manicure.”
How Long Do Gel Manicures Last?
Thanks to the curing process, gel manicures typically last anywhere from 10 days and up to three weeks.Totty says, "Gel manicures are designed to last around three weeks. Because of natural nail growth and wear and tear, anything beyond that usually does not look great. There are ways to improve wear with strengthening base gels like LeChat Liquid Gel Builder ($15) that will make your gels last longer."
And while gel polish alone is known for lasting longer than traditional lacquer, how it’s painted on plays a big role. When applying gel polish (or any polish for that matter), you want to make sure that your nail beds are as dry as possible. That doesn’t mean brittle—instead, there shouldn’t be any water, lotion, or oils on your nail plates, as the presence of such could prevent your gel polish from latching on.
As with any mani, chips and broken nails are still a possibility with gels; they’re just not as likely. If you do chip or break a gel, it helps to have a nail file on hand at all times. “File it to a shape you love and leave it be if you can,” Gibson Tuttle recommends. “If it’s obvious and you can’t return to the salon immediately, we recommend finding a similar polish to cover up any gaps in the color.”
The Cost
In general, expect gel polish to cost about $10 to $15 more than your regular manicure, depending on where you live.The cost of a gel manicure varies widely between cities, states, and nail techs. In major cities like LA and New York City, a gel manicure can cost anywhere from $30 to $50+. Keep in mind that youll also have to pay for gel removal (anywhere from $5-$15 depending on location) if you decide you dont want to take it off at home.
Gel Nails vs. Shellac Nails
While many consumers use these terms interchangeably, there is a difference: gel manicures use true gel polish, while shellac manicure use a hybrid formula of gel and classic polish. Personal preference is the main differentiator in popularity as both options provide a semi-permanent manicure at a similar price point—albeit with more gel nail color options generally available.
Professional vs At-Home Gel Manicure
If youve seen the latest lineups of gel nail polish offerings from brands like Deborah Lippman or Sally Hansen, you may be wondering what the deal is. Often packaged as duos of laquer and top coat, these pairings claim to offer similar chip-resistant, long-lasting results to gel manicures minus the UV curing process. Unlike classic gel manicures, the polishes dont necessarily need to be applied by a salon pro. In addition to the decreased risk of nail damage, these polishes also come at a much lower price point. For example, one bottle of Essies Gel Couture Nail Polish costs $13 and houses approximately 30 applications. At-home gel nail kits are definitely an option, but its important to keep in mind that the results will be comparable to a professional manicure, not identical. The steady hand and long-lasting results of an in-salon gel manicure cant be beat.
Are Gel Manicures Safe?
UV lights and their possibly carcinogenic side effects are the primary safety concern when it comes to gel manicures. The thought is that the small UV lamps used to cure gel manicures could have similar skin cancer implications as tanning beds, a link that was explored in a 2023 study.1Based on the study, “there is not enough evidence to specifically state how often to get gel manicures [to remain safe]," says Garshick. However, she adds that its always better safe than sorry. Besides minimizing the frequency of gel manicures, she recommends to "use UV protection, including wearing sunscreen or UV protecting gloves" during your treatment. (Any broad-spectrum SPF 30+ is recommended, but you can find our favorite hand sunscreens here).
Fortunately, due to the concerns, Totty says many salons of switched over to LED lamps to replace the possibly harmful UV lamps. "Over the last couple of years, gel manicures have become the most popular service in any salon. There has been ample research regarding damage to skin and nails; the traditional UV lamps used for curing these products have different bulbs than traditional ‘tanning beds,’ and most nail brands are switching to LED lamps simply because they cure the product in 30 seconds compared to two to three minutes using a UV lamp."
Can Gel Manicures Damage Your Nails?
Aside from the potential UV damage (the full effects of which are still being studied), gel manicures can also damage your natural nails. Gel polish can be fairly drying, leaving your natural nails more brittle underneath the polish. However, experts agree the worst of the damage comes from improper removal.
“The biggest disadvantage to gel manicures is improper removal,” Gibson Tuttle shares. “You can avoid this by properly (and patiently) removing the polish yourself at home or seeking manicurists who take their time in removal to protect your nails.”
To keep your natural nails strong, our experts recommend taking breaks between gel manicures (alternate between gel and regular polish manicures, or leave nails bare of polish for at least 1-2 weeks between gel manicures). Between gel appointments, you should also take additional steps to strengthen your nails, such as applying cuticle oil.
How to Safely Remove a Gel Manicure
Its always best to visit a professional for gel nail removal (which usually costs about $10-$15). But when thats not possible, it can be done at home with a little time and patience.First of all, gel nail polish should never be peeled or picked off the nails, which can rip off the protective top layer of your nail. Instead, to remove gel polish at home, youll want to follow these specific instructions to avoid damage to your natural nails.
“First, file the gels to break the topcoat seal,” says Gibson-Tuttle. “Then, place cotton balls soaked in pure acetone on your nails and wrap your fingertips in tin foil.” Let them sit for 10-15 minutes before attempting to remove the polish. Once the timer goes off, use a wooden nail stick to gently lift the remaining polish. The gels should remove easily with minimal pressure and pushing; if theyre not lifting off of your natural nails with minimal effort, repeat the acetone soak for another 10-15 minutes.
According to all three experts, a cuticle oil or serum is your BFF post-gel mani. “Your nails will be on the brittle side due to the removal solution, so it is important to rehydrate your nail,” Lim says. We also recommend "slugging" your nails with an occlusive like Vaseline to keep them nourished.
The Takeaway
If youre looking for a set-it-and-forget-it solution to constant nail polish upkeep, a gel manicure could be the answer to your prayers. A single salon appointment can offer a glossy, chip-resistant manicure that should last anywhere from 10 to 20 days. For the safest approach, experts suggest opting for LED lights instead of a UV lamp for the curing process and wearing sunscreen. To maintain the health of your nail beds, always see a professional for removal, apply cuticle oil, and never, ever try to pick or peel off the gel yourself. If you find your nails react poorly to gel nail polish, consider a long-lasting alternative.
Article Sources
Zhivagui M, Hoda A, Valenzuela N, et al. DNA damage and somatic mutations in mammalian cells after irradiation with a nail polish dryer. Nat Commun. 2023;14(1):276.